Benefits of Vitamin C for Pigmentation

Vitamin C is an essential nutrient that helps the body develop blood vessels, muscle, cartilage, and collagen. Officially known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C plays a crucial role in the body's healing processes. Since our body does not produce vitamin C on its own, we need to make it a part of our diet. Apart from citrus fruits like lemon, lime, gooseberry, oranges, and tangerines, vitamin C can also be found in tomatoes, brussels sprouts, spinach, broccoli, and other assorted fruits and vegetables. It is also available as an oral supplement in chewable tablets and capsule form.  

Vitamin C has strong antioxidant properties that help the skin's regenerative abilities by fighting the adverse effects of free radicals caused by UV exposure. Due to its reactive nature, free radicals are responsible for breaking down the collagen of our skin, which leads to unflattering skin flaws such as dark spots, fine lines, loose and saggy skin. Vitamin C protects skin cells from free radicals and inhibits melanin production in the skin, which helps to ease hyperpigmentation, brown spots, even skin tone, and improve skin radiance.

While your body is getting its vitamin C requirements in the form of fruits and supplements, you don't know if your skin is reaping the benefits. That is where topical applications like serums come into the picture.  

Collagen Boosting

Its high acidic value reserves a special place for vitamin C in skin health regimens. When applied on the skin surface, vitamin C boosts the production of collagen and elastin, which encourages healthy cell turnover and regeneration. This is one secret behind plump and firm skin. Vitamin C can protect your skin from developing fine lines too and reduces the appearance of under-eye circles.  

Safety Profile

Vitamin C has a good safety profile in a wide range of clinical applications that allows it to be used topically over extended periods by most people, without fear of adverse reactions. It is also safe for use in combination with a range of skin protection compounds such as retinol, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and sun protection creams and lotions.  

Common Forms of Vitamin C in Skin Care

Ascorbic Acid (L- Ascorbic Acid): A water-soluble derivative, it's the purest form and one of the most effective types of vitamin C. Since ascorbic acid suppresses melanin formation, it is majorly used for skin depigmentation purposes. Topical treatment with ascorbic acid also exerts a protective effect on the inflammatory response to UV rays, even after sun exposure. In addition to the above, ascorbic acid also finds use in removing age spots, melasma, stretch marks, and other such conditions at deeper skin levels.

On the flip side, ascorbic acid can be quite unstable as it can become inactive and degrades very rapidly when exposed to light, or air, when applied to the skin. However, formulations containing derivatives of ascorbic acid have been found more stable, but they might not produce the same effect as that of the parent compound. 

Vitamin C Derivatives

Due to its antioxidant properties, vitamin C is unstable and naturally tends to decompose and become ineffective when exposed to light or air. That's why, in addition to its pure form, there are several derivatives of vitamin C that are used in skin health applications.  

Derivatives are created by adding a compound such as phosphate or palmitate to vitamin C. Along with preventing the degradation of vitamin C, such derivatives are useful in producing skincare formulations.  

Compared to ascorbic acid, the vitamin C derivatives are relatively more stable and less sensitive to light and air, cause less irritation to the skin, and are not so pH dependent. However, these derivatives are found to be relatively less effective too. Some of the popular derivatives of vitamin C include ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and calcium ascorbate. Understanding their properties and application is crucial for obtaining the maximum value for your skin, from vitamin C skin products.  

• Ascorbyl Palmitate: An oil-soluble derivative, it is also known as vitamin C ester. When applied to the skin surface, ascorbyl palmitate transforms into ascorbic acid. This derivative is more stable than ascorbic acid and is capable of faster penetration into the skin layers.  
• Ascorbyl Glucoside: This derivative is considered as one of the most stable forms of vitamin C. Ascorbyl glucoside is usually recommended for sensitive skin types. When applied to the skin, ascorbyl glucoside transforms into ascorbic acid.  
• Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: It's an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative that remains stable at pH levels below 5. When applied to the skin, it converts into ascorbic acid, offering enhanced penetration compared to other forms of vitamin C.

How to get the most out of your vitamin C serums:  

Products that you can complement with your vitamin C  

Just as vitamin C is popular for its skin-health benefits, several myths abound around its adverse effects:    

#Myth 1: All Vitamin C serums are the same.  

Fact: Not all vitamin C serums are created equal. Factors such as the concentration levels, ingredients, and chemical structure, play a role in the composition and skin benefits offered by the different vitamin C serums. 

Ascorbic acid is the purest form of vitamin C and one of its most effective variants. Although it’s rich in antioxidant properties, ascorbic acid’s reactive nature leads to its rapid oxidisation. This affects efficacy as well as causes skin irritation. While other forms of Vitamin C derivatives may be more stable, it is important/ advisable to avoid formulations that contain parabens, petrochemical, synthetic colorants, and artificial fragrances that may harm the skin. Look for products that contain medical-grade ingredients and natural certified formula. 

#Myth 2: Vitamin C can cause skin discolouration  

Fact: It's true that vitamin C does inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme that helps melanin production. But it's equally true that instead of darkening your skin, vitamin C actually evens the skin tone and brightens it over time. However, if exposed to light or air, vitamin C products can degrade and turn brown/orange; its benefits will also become obsolete. Ideally, L-ascorbic acid skin products must be used up within three months.  

#Myth 3: Higher the percentage of Vitamin C, more the efficiency  

Fact: More than the percentage levels, vitamin C effectiveness is dependent on pH levels and the specific formulation. While a percentage range between 10% and 20% is considered safe to use, it is advisable to use Vitamin C of lower percentages. Ultimately, the absorption factor makes the difference, irrespective of concentration. 

Vitamin C to the rescue against pigmentation 

While pigmentation is a concern we need to address daily, nutrients like vitamin C aren't miracle workers. Consulting certified aesthetic medical professionals for advice on effective skincare products or treatments for pigmentation issues is advisable. Take the first step today.